Saturday 19 August 2023

Iceland

Tuesday 8th August

Its good when it works. Up at 5am, out of flat at 5.45am and the 6am no 94 turned up on time. Got off in the right place - before wood St and was at Sophia Gardens by 7am for the 7.20 National Express to Heathrow. Through security by 10.45. The gate was announced at 12 and it was quite a walk to get to it. Had a window seat at the back and with miserable weather we joined the queue to get airborne. Weather cleared a bit over Scotland and was brilliant as we arrived in Iceland. Flat lava flows.

Iceland Airport was a maze, mixing arrivals with outgoing passengers, then a 45km coach ride to the ship. Fellow passengers cheered at the announcement that there was no McDonalds in Iceland. Urban myth about the last Big Mac not decomposing and being a museum piece was told.

On board issued with expedition jacket (I am a Gannet) and into cabin, eventually sorted out the TV. Did welcome party, dinner was good as it was a buffet and I didn't have to share a table. I guess I slept enough on the bus and plane not to feel too tired.

Wenesday 9th August Stykkisholmur

Up at 6am. Coffee in top deck, too strong. Breakfast at back of boat was surprisingly un-satisfying, as was lunch. Kept us going on the walk around town though. Had a burger, which didn't really fit the bun, and came with fries, but the milkshake was good and did the trick. 20.30 and I am tired. 

Day has been beautiful. Scenery wonderful but what can you do with it?

Thursday 10th Patreksfjordur

Overslept, not as good an early breakfast on Deck 9 and main breakfast continues to unsatisfy, but the sausages were cooked a little better and there was an interesting cheese egg. 

No announcement about the hike and they left without me. However, within an hour I had caught up with them and given the number of times I needed a leak it was just as well that I left them behind. I did get overtaken by some jogger, and we both saw the other fjord. I then decided to do the ridge in the hope that I could get down the ravine to the west of the village. Got there in plenty of time but the streambed emptied out over a waterfall that would have been over 100ft high if there had been any water in the bed. In fact the sphagnum was totally dry, so travel was not as arduous as it might have been, but the boulder fields were interesting. Looked at a couple of ravines and might have been able to get down the scree slope but decided to play it safe and retrace my steps. That said I missed the path and came down on the opposite bank of the stream to the ascent. 

Total was 15 miles according to Samsung and 12 according to Google. Two crab sandwiches and a milkshake - which was just as well as I went to diner which was waiter service and tenderloin of pork was tiny. As was the icecream.

The book gets even sillier. (Clive Cussler - Oregon Files)

Friday 11th Expediion Day

Once again I overslept. spotted a couple of whales, confirmed as Humpbacks from the bridge. The breakfast was more filling, as I added some ham and cheese rolls into it. Got jam from the croissants on my shirt so had to change. We were the first group off for a trip in the Zodiacs. Pretty windy, 20t+ gusts. Seeing Seals in the distance doesn't exactly fill me with the same thrill as everyone else.

Moved across the fjord at lunchtime and got ferried to an island. Lots of Arctic Terns getting agitated, also Guillemots and Puffins. Doubt that I have any good photos. The island had power, the guide didn't know about the transits for the electric cable. I also think he expected the traditional boat to float. Spoke the the island owner who admitted it would be too dangerous to launch her as the weather could not be trusted while she took up.

Back on board and got Beer and hot dog - those on the late shift to the island probably missed it. Crab sandwich for dinner, lots of people looking to miss the vegitarian evening. I'm trying for an early night.

Saturday 12th Djupavik

Getting up at 6am was OK. I still have a problem with coffee, but breakfast was good, 4 courses. An early start on the expedition, which went OK but was finished, with whales, by 11.30ish. Didn't feel hungry, so wandered around. Didn't get back in time to join the visit to the "art centre" and was 2 miles off the target distance, so walked it. Back on board and still not hungry. Waiter was friendly, so had a snack, which spread everywhere. Talk on rocks was basic.

More whales and a MoB drill and more whales. It's cold outside so sitting in my cocoon. New book (Michael Crichton - Next) Discovered keynote and films on the TV but want an early night.

Sunday 13 Akureyri
Quite a large town and with tour scheduled for 12.50 I decided it was a good day to catch up on the computer and watch a film. Dune sort of finished, no wonder there is a second chapter coming (at least this version sticks pretty close to the book). 

Weather continues to be wonderful which meant that with a fleece and jacket I was too hot. The walk was pretty uninteresting, apart from the timescale. Everything has developed since 1900. Decided £6 was too much for a fridge magnet, returned to the ship to hear a talk on the Norse Gods, which again seemed to date from around 1900, at least most of the illustrations were from that late victorian period. 

Would have been another early night apart from listening to "Sounds of the 70's" Internet connection seems pretty good. Did venture out to check my transfer details. 7am coach from the ship, with breakfast starting at 05.30.

Monday 14th Grimsey Island
Woke up to thick fog, had breakfast and returned to cabin to do diary. Looked up and fog has burnt off. Tendering ashore starts at 09.00 and my group is due to be called at 09.15. It's 9km around the island we are told.

So I wandered around the island attempting to take photos of Puffins and other seabirds. Convinved myself that I could see Greenland - only 250 mls away. Have now becom convinced that it was an Arctic Mirage. It was good enough to explain how the Vikings would have sailed there. The ship seemed to be holding position on engines. Got to next port in the evening. Just failed to hit target paces - no little green bar today.

Tuesday 15th Husavik

Early start for the hike which went up the mountain by a circuitous route. I left them on the way back and wandered up to the lake and then back to the ship so I got my little green bar today. Failed to find the route I thought was there, maybe didn't go far enough. Departure was 1500 so was back in time to have lunch and then got the nibbles later.

Managed to join Hesters (RYA Development Officer) Teams meeting. Should have been on wifi (I hope) there was no phone reception according to the phone.

Wednesday 16th Baccagerdi
Up early enough to find the ship enveloped in fog. Interesting experience of seeing the mountain tops above the fog as we came in. The Fjord crept up on me while I was having breakfast. Another early start for the hike - wondering how I will like it as it is up and over and then back again, vertical gain of 800m.

Well, it was OK - the leader set quite a pace but it was OK. However, the other side was steeper, and all it did was go down to a beech, so I decided to go back. Wandering the peaks was not an option as I was embedded in the group. Should

have stayed out but the hike gets off on the first tenders. At the bottom I hiked to the village, which was quite tedious, and not far enough according to Samsung. Just missed the bus back, so had half an hour watching the water and oystercatchers. Wandered around the harbour trying to get the distance in. Sent a photo of the harbour office to Chris. Got the distance on the boat. Happy hiker!

There was a problem with the tenders, a shackle or something failed, dropping a tender. Didn't see it but watched he recovery operation. We were an hour late leaving. About F5 (maybe) so a little movement

Thursday 17th Heimaey

Due alongside at noon. The entry to the port was quite spectacular, very narrow and steep cliffs. The hike was interesting, through the lava fields and up onto the ridge. There were a number of information boards showing how the lava had buried houses, and the way the entrance was narrowed was quite spectacular.
Thought about going out again and getting the three miles I was short but gave in to having tea, well a burger, crab roll and the usual chocolate milk shake. Checked in with BA for the flight home.

Departure was equally spectacular as we moved up the harbour and did a 360. Seemed to swivel on the azipods, without much use of the bow thrusters. The pilot boat was one of the ugliest I have seen, and had a child aboard! Captain took us around the island, but not down to Surtsey.

Friday 18th Reykjavik
So up at 05.15 for breakfast. Packed and off the boat at 7am. Usual waits for the flight and on arrival breezed through passport control and had a 20min + wait for the train to take me from T5 to T2 to catch the coach. Ian met me at Sophia Gardens and gave me a lift home. It was had been raining and was a wet and windy night. Real Iceland type weather..

The Official video is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHwAffj0CqI

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